We arrived in Coimbra for our overnight stay at Quintas das Lagrimas. This old palace, originally built in 1326 and its grounds are an attraction in itself. There are tales of Princess Inez being killed in the gardens by her father in law, King Alfonso and the subsequent tales of her blood flowing in the fountains in the gardens (look carefully at the picture of Cheryl and Joan), hence the name of the hotel. The grounds were magnificent with great walking trails.
The best views of the city are from across the river high on a hill at the Convent of Santa Clara. The city itself dates back to the post Roman period and the reign of the moors. The older part of the city on the hill contains Portugal’s most prestigious university and probably its largest with 35,000 students. Tradition is big here and J. K. Rawling came here to do research for the Harry Potter Series. You will see why in the pictures. The university dates back to 1290 but most of the older buildings and the clock tower are from the early 1700’s. The newer part of town is down by the River Modego and is known as the Baixa. The main thoroughfare is now a pedestrian only area and is crowded with shops, cafes, and of course the occasional church. There is also an old Jewish quarter and although there are no longer practising Jews in the town we enjoyed an evening of Fado music in a building that was originally a synagogue. Fado is typical Portugese music of Lisbon and Coimbra using a Portugese guitar (12 strings and a shape similar to a Balalika), an acoustic guitar, and singing.
